Safety · Updated 3 August 2026
Power Outage and Storm Preparation for Melbourne Homes
The west catches the weather first. Here is how to tell a house fault from a network outage, when it is safe to reset a safety switch, and what to do about surge damage afterwards.
- 8 min read
- Written for Victoria
- 2026 figures
The short answer
When the power drops, first check whether neighbouring houses and street lights are also dark. If the whole street is out it is a network fault and the distributor fixes it at no cost, with the faults number printed on your electricity bill. If only your house is affected, check the switchboard for a tripped main switch or safety switch. Reset it once. If it trips straight back in, or there is any burning smell or heat, leave it off and call a licensed electrician.
- Emergency line
- 24/7 for live faults
- Clearance from a fallen line
- At least 8 metres
- Safe reset attempts
- One
- Solar output in a blackout
- Zero without backup
The first two minutes
Power goes out and the instinct is to start flicking switches. Do the diagnosis first, because it takes thirty seconds and it decides who you should be calling.
Look outside. If the street lights are out and your neighbours are dark too, this is a network outage and there is nothing at your switchboard to fix. Melbourne west is served mainly by Powercor, with Jemena covering parts of the north west, and the faults and emergencies number is printed on your electricity bill. Save it in your phone now rather than searching for a bill by torchlight later.
If everyone else has power and you do not, the fault is on your side of the point of supply and it is an electrician job. Go to the switchboard with a torch, not a candle, and look at the switches. Something will usually be in the off or middle position.
Before you touch anything, stop and use your nose and your eyes. A burning or fishy plastic smell, visible scorching, warmth at the board, or any buzzing or crackling changes the situation entirely. In that case do not reset anything. Turn off the main switch if you can reach it safely and call an emergency electrician. A hot switchboard is a fire in its early stage and every reset feeds it.
Look at the street first
Neighbours dark and street lights out means a network fault. Nothing at your board will fix it.
Use a torch, not a candle
Open flame in a dark house with people moving around is a second emergency waiting to happen.
Smell and feel before you switch
Burning smell, heat at the board, buzzing or scorch marks means leave it off and call.
Save the distributor number
It is on your electricity bill. Put it in your phone before you need it.
Check the fridge and freezer plan
Keep the doors shut. A full freezer holds for a surprisingly long time if nobody opens it.
Resetting a tripped safety switch, properly
A safety switch, or RCD, trips because it has detected current leaking somewhere it should not be going, which in the worst case is through a person. A circuit breaker trips because a circuit is drawing more current than it should. Both are the board doing its job, and neither should be treated as an inconvenience to be overridden.
The safe sequence is straightforward. Unplug or switch off every appliance on the affected part of the house, including anything in the kitchen, the laundry and any outdoor equipment. Then reset the tripped device firmly to the on position. If it holds, plug appliances back in one at a time, waiting a moment between each. The one that trips it again is your culprit, and that appliance stays unplugged until it is repaired or replaced.
If the device trips straight back in with everything unplugged, stop. That is a fault in the fixed wiring rather than in an appliance, and it needs fault finding with test instruments. Resetting a protective device repeatedly against a genuine fault is how a small fault becomes a fire.
One reset is reasonable. Two is a judgement call. Three is not something we would do in our own house.
Unplug everything on the circuit first
Including kettles, chargers, outdoor gear and anything that was running when it tripped.
Reset firmly to the on position
A half thrown switch looks reset and is not. Push it fully off first, then fully on.
Reintroduce appliances one at a time
The one that trips it again is the fault. That is a diagnosis you can do yourself for free.
Trips with nothing plugged in
A fixed wiring fault. Leave it off, use the rest of the house, and book an electrician.
Never bypass or wedge a device
If a switch will not stay on there is a reason, and the reason is not the switch.
Storms, water and what they do to an installation
The western suburbs catch weather off the bay and off the plains, and the pattern is familiar. A hot northerly, a fast change, wind, and then the calls start. There are three distinct problems that come out of a Melbourne storm and they need different responses.
The first is physical damage. Branches into service lines, a fallen line, damage to the point of attachment on the house, or a tile off the roof letting water into a ceiling space where wiring runs. A line down or damaged is a call to 000 and the distributor. Stay at least eight metres clear, keep children and animals back, and never assume a line on the ground is dead.
The second is water. Water into a meter box, into a switchboard, or into a ceiling above downlights is a live hazard and it does not announce itself. If a ceiling is bulging or dripping near a light fitting, turn that circuit off at the board before anyone goes near it, and do not stand in water to reach a switch. Older homes around Newport, Spotswood and Yarraville with original wiring in the roof space are the ones where this bites hardest, and if the wiring is already at the end of its life a wet ceiling is often what exposes it.
The third is surge, which is the one people discover a week later.
Surge damage, and why it shows up late
A surge is a very short spike in voltage. It comes from lightning, from network switching when supply is restored after an outage, or from a fault on the network. The spike itself lasts microseconds. The damage does not.
What people expect is a bang and a dead appliance. What usually happens is quieter. Electronics take a partial hit that degrades a power supply or a control board, the appliance keeps working, and it fails three weeks later for no apparent reason. The television, the modem, the solar inverter, the oven control board, the ducted heating controller and the garage door opener are the usual casualties, and the insurance conversation is much harder when the failure is a month after the storm.
A surge diverter fitted at the switchboard clamps the spike before it gets into the house wiring, which protects everything downstream rather than only what is plugged into a particular power board. It is a cheap addition when a board is already open, which is why we suggest it whenever we do a switchboard upgrade, and considerably more expensive as a standalone call out.
Board level protection is not a substitute for point of use protection on the most sensitive gear. Use both on a home office, a solar inverter or an expensive entertainment setup. And after any storm outage, it is worth walking the house and checking that everything came back on properly, including the alarm, the smoke alarms and anything on a timer.
Batteries, backup circuits and what they actually cover
A common assumption is that a house with solar keeps running in a blackout. It does not. A standard grid connected solar system shuts down when the grid goes down, deliberately, so that it cannot energise a network line that someone is working on. Sun on the roof and no power in the house is normal and it surprises people every summer.
A home battery can provide backup, but only if it was specified and wired for it. Backup requires additional equipment and a changeover arrangement at the switchboard, and it usually feeds a nominated set of essential circuits rather than the whole house. That is a design decision made at installation, not a setting you can enable later without work.
The essential circuits people choose are fairly consistent. Fridge and freezer, some lighting, a few power points for phones and a modem, and the gas heater controls if there is one. What does not go on backup is anything with a large draw, so no ducted air conditioning, no oven, no instantaneous hot water. A battery sized for evening self consumption will not run a whole house through a summer day at 38 degrees, and anyone suggesting otherwise is selling.
Our guide on whether a home battery is worth it in Melbourne west goes through the economics. For blackout resilience specifically, decide early, because retrofitting backup to an existing battery installation costs meaningfully more than specifying it at the start.
Getting a house ready before the season
Most of the preparation worth doing is not dramatic and it is cheaper than any of the consequences.
Know where your switchboard is and make sure you can get to it without moving a bookcase. Have a torch that works in a known place, and make sure the phone charger is not the only way anyone in the house sees at night. Label the circuits, or ask for it next time an electrician is in the board, because a labelled board turns a five minute diagnosis into a thirty second one.
Check that the board actually has RCD protection. A surprising number of homes across Braybrook, Maidstone and Sunshine North still run boards with breakers and no safety switches, which means the circuits are protected but the people are not. That is the single most valuable upgrade in this whole guide.
Trim vegetation near the service line to the house, and take the roof seriously. Most storm related electrical damage we attend starts as a water problem rather than an electrical one.
Clear access to the switchboard
Nothing stacked in front of it. You will be finding it in the dark at some point.
Labelled circuits
Ask for it next time the board is open. It saves diagnostic time and it saves you turning off the wrong thing.
RCD protection on all circuits
Breakers protect wiring. Only a safety switch protects a person. Check what you have.
Surge diverter at the board
Cheap while the board is open, dearer as its own visit, and it protects the whole installation.
A torch per level of the house
Not a candle, and not the phone you are about to need for calling the distributor.
When to call rather than investigate
We would much rather someone called and was told to wait until Tuesday than sat up all night worrying about something that could not hurt them, or poked at something that could.
Call immediately for a burning smell, smoke or arcing anywhere in the installation, exposed conductors after storm damage, water over electrical equipment or into the board, a shock from a tap or an appliance, a fallen or damaged line, or a main switch that trips again straight after a reset. These are the calls our 24/7 line exists for.
Call in normal hours for a circuit that trips only when a specific appliance runs, a dead power point, a light that has stopped working, or a board that is old and full but not doing anything alarming. That is ordinary electrical work and paying an after hours premium for it is money for nothing.
We are based in Altona and cover the western suburbs, so a van reaches most addresses in the area quickly, which matters at two in the morning. See our service areas for the full list, or if you are local to Williamstown or Altona North we are minutes away. To book non urgent work, contact us. For a live fault, call 0401 500 446 at any hour.
Figures in this guide are indicative and were accurate at the time of writing (3 August 2026). Rebate values, eligibility rules and certificate-linked discounts change regularly. Confirm current amounts with the program administrator, and treat your written quote as the accurate figure for your property.
Answers
Frequently asked questions
Look at the street. If neighbouring houses and the street lights are also dark, it is a network outage and the distributor fixes it at no charge to you. If everyone else has power and you do not, the fault is on your side of the point of supply and it is an electrician job. Your distributor faults number is printed on your electricity bill.
Resetting once is reasonable. Unplug everything on the affected circuits first, then push the device fully off and fully on. If it holds, reintroduce appliances one at a time to find the culprit. If it trips straight back in with nothing plugged in, that is a fixed wiring fault. Leave it off and book an electrician rather than resetting repeatedly.
Grid connected solar systems shut down automatically when the grid goes down, so they cannot energise a network line that someone may be working on. That is a deliberate safety function, not a fault. Running through an outage requires a battery specified and wired for backup, with a changeover arrangement at the switchboard and a nominated set of essential circuits.
Stay at least eight metres away, keep children and animals well back, and never assume a line on the ground is dead. Call 000 and then your distributor. Do not attempt to move branches off a line or to clear debris around it. If the line is across a vehicle with people inside, tell them to stay in it until the distributor makes it safe.
Yes, and it is the common case. A surge lasting microseconds can partially degrade a power supply or control board without stopping the appliance working. It then fails weeks later, which makes the insurance conversation much harder. Solar inverters, modems, televisions, oven controls and heating controllers are the usual casualties after a storm outage.
They do different jobs and the best answer is both. A diverter at the switchboard clamps the spike before it enters the house wiring, protecting everything downstream including hardwired equipment. Point of use protection guards the most sensitive gear against what gets through. Board level protection is much cheaper to fit while a board is already open.
Whatever essential circuits it was wired for, typically the fridge and freezer, some lighting, a few power points for phones and a modem, and heating controls. Large loads are deliberately excluded, so no ducted air conditioning, no oven and no instantaneous hot water. Backup capability has to be designed in at installation rather than switched on afterwards.
Check the switchboard for a device that tripped during the outage or when supply was restored, which is common. If a reset holds, you are fine. If part of the house is dead with nothing tripped, or lights are running dim, that can indicate a lost neutral or a failed service fuse and it needs attention promptly regardless of who owns the fault.
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